Wailu, Paʻi & Hoʻopau

Eia wau e kaʻana like i ka ʻike e pili ana i ke kala lole, ka paʻi ʻana a me ke kaʻina hana hoʻopau.

ʻO ke kala, paʻi ʻana a me ka hoʻopau ʻana he hana koʻikoʻi i ka hana ʻana i nā textiles no ka mea hāʻawi lākou i ka waihoʻoluʻu, ke ʻano, a me ka lima i ka huahana hope.ʻO nā kaʻina hana e pili ana i nā mea hana i hoʻohana ʻia, nā mea hoʻohui a me ke ʻano o nā wili a me nā lole.Hiki ke hana ʻia ke kala, paʻi ʻana a me ka hoʻopau ʻana ma nā ʻano like ʻole o ka hana lole.

Hiki ke hoʻoluʻu ʻia nā pulupulu maoli e like me ka pulupulu a i ʻole ka huluhulu ma mua o ka wili ʻia ʻana i loko o nā wili a ua kapa ʻia nā wili i hana ʻia ma kēia ʻano he wili i hoʻoluʻu ʻia.Hiki ke hoʻohui ʻia nā wai kala i nā ʻoluʻolu wili a i ʻole i loko o nā ʻāpana polymer i ka wā e wili ʻia ai nā fiber synthetic, a ma kēia ʻano, hana ʻia nā wili wili a i ʻole nā ​​wili wili.No nā lole i hoʻoluʻu ʻia, pono e hoʻoluli ʻia nā wili ma mua o ka ulana ʻana a i ʻole ka wili ʻana.Hoʻolālā ʻia nā mīkini kala no ka pena ʻana i nā wili ma ke ʻano o nā hanks i ʻeha a ʻeha paha i loko o nā pūʻolo.Ua kapa ʻia kēlā mau mīkini he hank dyeing a me package dyeing machine.

Hana ʻia nā kaʻina hana hoʻopau i nā lole i hui ʻia.No ka laʻana, ʻo ka lole denim i holoi ʻia ma nā ʻano he nui, e like me ka holoi pōhaku a i ʻole ka holoi enzyme, kaulana loa i kēia mau lā.Hiki ke hoʻohana ʻia ka hoʻoluʻu ʻaʻahu no kekahi mau ʻano lole wili i mea e hana ai i nā lole e pale aku ai i ka waihoʻoluʻu o loko.

Eia nō naʻe, i ka hapanui o nā hihia, hana ʻia ke kala, paʻi ʻana a me ka hoʻopau ʻana i nā lole, kahi e ulana ʻia ai nā lole a i ʻole ʻia a laila ʻo kēia mau lole ʻeleʻele a i ʻole "greige" mokuʻāina, ma hope o ka hoʻomaʻamaʻa mua ʻana, hoʻoluʻu ʻia, a paʻi ʻia a paʻi ʻia, a hoʻopau ʻia me ke kemika a i ʻole mechanically. .

Hoʻomaʻamaʻa mua

No ka loaʻa ʻana o nā hopena "manaʻo ʻia a reproducible" i ke kala a me ka hoʻopau ʻana, pono kekahi mau lapaʻau mua.Ma muli o ke kaʻina hana, hiki ke mālama ʻia nā lole ma ke ʻano he ʻāpana hoʻokahi a i ʻole nā ​​​​hui, a i ʻole e humuhumu ʻia me ka hoʻohana ʻana i nā kaulahao kaulahao, maʻalahi e wehe ʻia no ka hana hope, e hana i nā lōʻihi o nā pūʻulu like ʻole no ka hana mau ʻana.

 

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1. Oli ana

ʻO ka hīmeni ʻana ke kaʻina hana e hoʻopau ai i ka ʻili a i ʻole ka moe ʻana ma ka ʻili lole e pale ai i ka waihoʻoluʻu ʻole ʻana a i ʻole nā ​​paʻi paʻi.Ma ka ʻōlelo maʻamau, pono e hīmeni ʻia nā lole ʻulaʻula ʻulaʻula ma mua o ka hoʻomaka ʻana o nā hana mua.Nui nā ʻano mīkini hīmeni, e like me ka mea hīmeni pā, ka mea hīmeni a me ka mea hīmeni gas.ʻO ke ʻano maʻalahi a kahiko loa ka mīkini hoʻokani pila.ʻO ka lole e puhi ʻia e hele ma luna o hoʻokahi a ʻelua mau pā keleawe wela i ka wikiwiki e wehe i ka hiamoe akā ʻaʻole e wela ka lole.I loko o ka mīkini mele mele, hoʻohana ʻia nā wili kila wela ma kahi o nā pā keleawe e hāʻawi i ka mana maikaʻi o ka hoʻomehana.ʻO ka mīkini hoʻoheheʻe kinoea, kahi e hele ai ka lole ma luna o nā mea puhi kinoea e hīmeni ai i ka ʻili o ka ʻili, ʻo ia ka mea maʻamau i hoʻohana ʻia i kēia mau lā.Hiki ke hoʻololi i ka helu a me ke kūlana o nā mea kuni ahi a me ka lōʻihi o ke ahi e loaʻa ai ka hopena maikaʻi loa.

2. Desizing

No nā ʻili maʻamau, ʻoi aku ka pulupulu, i hoʻohana ʻia i ka ulana ʻana, ʻo ka hoʻohana pinepine ʻana i ka starch, he mea pono e hoʻemi i ka lauoho lauoho a hoʻoikaika i ke kaula i hiki iā ia ke pale aku i nā ʻūhā ulana.Eia naʻe, ʻo ka nui i waiho ʻia ma luna o ka lole hiki ke keʻakeʻa i nā kemika a i ʻole nā ​​​​waiola i ka hoʻopili ʻana i nā fiber o ka lole.No laila pono e wehe ʻia ka nui ma mua o ka hoʻomaka ʻana o ka ʻōpala.

ʻO ke kaʻina hana e wehe i ka nui mai ka lole i kapa ʻia ʻo desizing a steeping.Hiki ke hoʻohana ʻia ka hoʻomaʻemaʻe ʻana i ka enzyme, ka hoʻomaʻemaʻe alkali a i ʻole ka waika.I ka hoʻoheheʻe ʻana i ka enzyme, ua uhi ʻia nā lole me ka wai wela e pehu ai i ka mākiko, a laila hoʻopiha ʻia me ka wai ʻona enzyme.Ma hope o ka hoʻopaʻa ʻana i loko o nā puʻu no 2 a 4 mau hola, holoi ʻia nā lole i ka wai wela.ʻAʻole liʻiliʻi ka manawa a me ka hoʻopōʻino ʻana i nā lole, akā inā hoʻohana ʻia ka nui kemika ma mua o ka starch palaoa, ʻaʻole hiki i nā enzymes ke wehe i ka nui.A laila, ʻo ke ala i hoʻohana nui ʻia no ka desizing he alkali desizing.Hoʻopili ʻia nā lole me kahi hopena palupalu o ka soda caustic a hoʻopaʻa ʻia i loko o kahi pahu steeping no 2 a 12 mau hola, a laila holoi ʻia.Inā ma hope o kēlā, mālama ʻia nā lole me ka dilute sulfuric acid, hiki ke loaʻa nā hopena maikaʻi aʻe.

No nā lole i ulana ʻia, ʻaʻole pono ka desizing no ka mea ʻaʻole nui ka nui o nā wili i hoʻohana ʻia i ka wili.

3. Ka wili ana

No nā mea ʻeleʻele i hana ʻia me nā pulu maoli, ʻaʻole hiki ke ʻalo ʻia nā haumia ma nā fibers.I ka lawe ʻana i ka pulupulu ma ke ʻano he laʻana, hiki ke loaʻa nā waxes, nā huahana pectin a me nā mea kanu a me nā mea mineral i loko o lākou.Hiki i kēia mau mea haumia ke hāʻawi i ka ʻulaʻula i ka waihoʻoluʻu melemele a paʻakikī ke mālama.ʻO ka haumia waxy i loko o nā pulupulu a me nā kikoʻaila ma nā lole e hoʻopilikia paha i nā hopena kala.

Eia kekahi, pono ka waxing a i ʻole ka aila ʻana i mea e palupalu ai nā wili koʻikoʻi me nā coefficient frictional haʻahaʻa no ka wili ʻana a wili paha.No nā filament synthetic, ʻoi aku ka nui o nā mea e hoʻohana ʻia i ka ulana warp, nā mea hana ʻili a me nā inhibitor static, ʻo ia ka mea maʻamau i hana ʻia i ka emulsion aila kūikawā, pono e hoʻohana ʻia i ka wā warping, inā ʻaʻole hiki i nā filament ke lawe i nā koina electrostatic, e hoʻopilikia nui i ka wili a i ʻole. hana ulana.

Pono e wehe ʻia nā mea haumia a pau e like me ka aila a me ka wax ma mua o ka waiho ʻana a me ka hoʻopau ʻana, a hiki i ka holoi ʻana, i ka nui loa, ke lawelawe i ke kumu.ʻO kekahi o nā ʻano hana maʻamau o ka ʻulaʻula ʻana i ka pulupulu hina hina, ʻo ia ka lole kier.Hoʻopili like ʻia ka lole pulupulu i loko o kahi kier i hoʻopaʻa paʻa ʻia a hoʻopuʻi ʻia ka waiʻona alkaline e hoʻolapalapa ʻia i loko o ke kier ma lalo o ke kaomi.ʻO kekahi ala ʻē aʻe i hoʻohana pinepine ʻia i ka ʻōpala ʻana, ʻo ia ka mahu hoʻomau a ua hana ʻia ka ʻōpala i nā mea hana i hoʻonohonoho pū ʻia, i loko o ka maʻamau he mangle, pahu J a me kahi mīkini holoi ʻōwili.

Hoʻopili ʻia ka waiʻona alkaline ma luna o ka lole ma o ka mangle, a laila, hānai ʻia ka lole i loko o ka J-pahu, kahi e hoʻokomo ʻia ai ka mahu saturated ma o ka mea hoʻomehana mahu, a ma hope, ua ahu like ka lole.Ma hope o hoʻokahi hola a ʻoi aʻe paha, hāʻawi ʻia ka lole i ka mīkini holoi ʻōwili.

4. Hoomaemae

ʻOiai hiki ke hoʻoneʻe ʻia ka hapa nui o nā haumia i loko o ka pulupulu a i ʻole nā ​​lole olonā ma hope o ka ʻula ʻana, e mau ana ke kala maoli i loko o ka lole.No ke kala ʻana o ia mau lole i ke kala māmā a i ʻole e hoʻohana ʻia e like me nā lole lepo no nā paʻi, pono ka bleaching e wehe i ke kala maoli.

ʻO ka mea hoʻomaʻemaʻe he mea oxidizing maoli nō ia.Hoʻohana mau ʻia kēia mau mea hoʻomaʻemaʻe.

ʻO ka sodium hypochlorite ( hiki ke hoʻohana ʻia ka calcium hypochlorite ) ka mea hoʻomaʻemaʻe maʻamau.Hana ʻia ka hoʻomaʻemaʻe ʻana me ka sodium hypochlorite ma lalo o nā kūlana alkaline, no ka mea, ma lalo o nā kūlana kūʻokoʻa a i ʻole ka ʻakika e hoʻoheheʻe loa ʻia ka sodium hypochlorite a e hoʻoikaika ʻia ka hoʻoneʻe ʻana o nā fiber cellulosic, e lilo ai ka cellulosic fiber i cellulose oxidized.Eia kekahi, ʻo nā metala e like me ka hao, nickel a me ke keleawe a me kā lākou mau pūhui he mau catalytic agents maikaʻi loa i ka decompositon o ka sodium hypochlorite, no laila ʻaʻole hiki ke hoʻohana ʻia nā mea hana o ia mau mea i ke kaʻina hana.

ʻO ka hydrogen peroxide kahi mea hoʻomaʻemaʻe maikaʻi loa.Nui nā pōmaikaʻi no ka holoi ʻana me ka hydrogen peroxide.ʻO kahi laʻana, e loaʻa i ka lole bleach ke keʻokeʻo maikaʻi a me ke ʻano paʻa, a ʻoi aku ka emi o ka ikaika o ka lole ma mua o ka wā i bleached me ka sodium hypochlorite.Hiki ke hoʻohui i nā kaʻina hana desizing, scauring a bleaching i hoʻokahi kaʻina.Hoʻohana pinepine ʻia ka hoʻomaʻemaʻe ʻana me ka hydrogen peroxide i loko o kahi hopena alkali palupalu, a pono e hoʻohana ʻia nā stabilizers e like me ka sodium silicate a i ʻole tri-ethanolamine e lanakila ai i nā hana catalytic i hana ʻia e nā metala i ʻōlelo ʻia ma luna a me kā lākou pūhui.

ʻO ka sodium chlorite kekahi mea hoʻomaʻemaʻe ʻē aʻe, hiki ke hāʻawi i kahi keʻokeʻo maikaʻi i loko o ka lole me ka liʻiliʻi o ka pōʻino i ka fiber a kūpono hoʻi no ka hana mau ʻana.Pono e hana ʻia ka hoʻomaʻemaʻe ʻana me ka sodium chlorite ma nā kūlana ʻawaʻawa.Eia nō naʻe, ke hoʻoheheʻe ʻia ka sodium chlorite, e hoʻokuʻu ʻia ka mahu chlorine dioxide, a he mea pōʻino kēia i ke olakino o ke kanaka a he mea ʻino loa ia i nā metala he nui, plastics a me ka lāʻau.No laila, hoʻohana maʻamau ka metala titanium no ka hana ʻana i nā mea hana bleaching, a pono e lawe ʻia ka pale pono i nā mahu pōʻino.ʻO kēia mau mea a pau e ʻoi aku ka uku o kēia ʻano o ka bleaching.

Mahalo no kou manawa.


Ka manawa hoʻouna: Mar-20-2023